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Glendalough
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Welcome
to Glendalough, the Valley of the Two Lakes in County
Wicklow. This is the site of the monastic settlement
which has proved such an attraction for pilgrims and
vocations to religious life.
Let
us see it in its infancy. Curiously, it begins with
one man's search for God in solitude. Kevin comes here
from Killnamanagh, and devotes himself to the ascetic
life of contemplation. Ironically, he attracts others,
and a community thus springs from a hermitage.
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The
monks live hard lives away from the comforts of the
world. Here on the south side of the upper lake, they
have only their flimsy huts for protection from the
elements. Wood, mud and straw are all that keep the
wind and rain at bay. And
yet more men arrive, regardless of the conditions. Young
men come from all over Leinster to be a part of this
challenging life of prayer. The contemplative life acts
as a magnet for those in search of meaning and peace.
And yet more men arrive, regardless of the conditions.
Young men come from all over Leinster to be a part of
this challenging life of prayer. The contemplative life
acts as a magnet for those in search of meaning and
peace.
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read
more |
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Overlooking
the lake, the monks build Teampull na Scellig, the Church
of the Rock. It is a more permanent addition to the landscape
than their huts, and it signals the community's intention
to stay. They are putting down roots. |
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The
process of growth gathers a momentum of its own, and a
further settlement is established further down towards
the lake shore. Another church is built.
Pilgrims who have made the long and arduous journey to
Rome, bring back earth from the tombs of the martyrs and
use it to bless the ground of the new church at the lake
shore. It comes to be called Reefert Church, meaning 'royal
graveyard'.
Reefert
is a key attraction for pilgrims. With its earth from
Rome, people come from all over Ireland to visit. Seven
pilgrimages to Glendalough equals one to Rome, and so
it becomes a natural alternative for those unable to make
the longer trip. In time to come, Reefert Church becomes
a favoured burial place for the great and good.
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Reefert
is a key attraction for pilgrims. With its earth from
Rome, people come from all over Ireland to visit. Seven
pilgrimages to Glendalough equals one to Rome, and so
it becomes a natural alternative for those unable to
make the longer trip. In time to come, Reefert Church
becomes a favoured burial place for the great and good.
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Such is the enormous popularity of Glendalough,
both as a place of pilgrimage and as a religious community,
that further expansion and movement is necessary. In
a vision, Kevin is told by an angel to move to a site
at the lower lake, where there is ample space to accommodate
the growth in numbers.
When
Kevin dies, he is laid to rest in Reefert Church, bringing
to an end the first chapter in the story of Glendalough.
Now we come into the time of the great monastic city
at the lower lake.
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This
is a vast and imposing development, compared with the
humble beginnings of Glendalough at the upper lake.
The entire monastery is enclosed by a massive wall,
and contains an outer and inner settlement.
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As we venture first of all, into the
outer section, we find crops, grazing animals and farm
buildings. This is the agricultural land which serves
the physical needs of this thriving city. The extent
of the industry here gives a clear indication of the
prosperity of the inner section, the monastery proper.
Coming to Glendalough as pilgrims,
we enter via the gateway, an imposing stone passageway
which leads us from the outer to the inner section.
It is, in itself, an impressive sight, befitting the
scene which awaits us in the monastic enclosure.
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Here, amid the
throng of holy men and pilgrims, we find the Cathedral
of Ss Peter and Paul, a splendid round tower - well over
a hundred feet high - as well as guest houses and the
monks' quarters. It bears all the hallmarks of prestige
and patronage.
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