Glendalough
Glendalough today

     Welcome to Glendalough, the Valley of the Two Lakes in County Wicklow. This is the site of the monastic settlement which has proved such an attraction for pilgrims and vocations to religious life.

Let us see it in its infancy. Curiously, it begins with one man's search for God in solitude. Kevin comes here from Killnamanagh, and devotes himself to the ascetic life of contemplation. Ironically, he attracts others, and a community thus springs from a hermitage.

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     The monks live hard lives away from the comforts of the world. Here on the south side of the upper lake, they have only their flimsy huts for protection from the elements. Wood, mud and straw are all that keep the wind and rain at bay. And yet more men arrive, regardless of the conditions. Young men come from all over Leinster to be a part of this challenging life of prayer. The contemplative life acts as a magnet for those in search of meaning and peace.

And yet more men arrive, regardless of the conditions. Young men come from all over Leinster to be a part of this challenging life of prayer. The contemplative life acts as a magnet for those in search of meaning and peace.

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     Overlooking the lake, the monks build Teampull na Scellig, the Church of the Rock. It is a more permanent addition to the landscape than their huts, and it signals the community's intention to stay. They are putting down roots.
   
The process of growth gathers a momentum of its own, and a further settlement is established further down towards the lake shore. Another church is built.

Pilgrims who have made the long and arduous journey to Rome, bring back earth from the tombs of the martyrs and use it to bless the ground of the new church at the lake shore. It comes to be called Reefert Church, meaning 'royal graveyard'.

Reefert is a key attraction for pilgrims. With its earth from Rome, people come from all over Ireland to visit. Seven pilgrimages to Glendalough equals one to Rome, and so it becomes a natural alternative for those unable to make the longer trip. In time to come, Reefert Church becomes a favoured burial place for the great and good.

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    Reefert is a key attraction for pilgrims. With its earth from Rome, people come from all over Ireland to visit. Seven pilgrimages to Glendalough equals one to Rome, and so it becomes a natural alternative for those unable to make the longer trip. In time to come, Reefert Church becomes a favoured burial place for the great and good.

   

Such is the enormous popularity of Glendalough, both as a place of pilgrimage and as a religious community, that further expansion and movement is necessary. In a vision, Kevin is told by an angel to move to a site at the lower lake, where there is ample space to accommodate the growth in numbers.

When Kevin dies, he is laid to rest in Reefert Church, bringing to an end the first chapter in the story of Glendalough. Now we come into the time of the great monastic city at the lower lake.

   
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     This is a vast and imposing development, compared with the humble beginnings of Glendalough at the upper lake. The entire monastery is enclosed by a massive wall, and contains an outer and inner settlement.

   

As we venture first of all, into the outer section, we find crops, grazing animals and farm buildings. This is the agricultural land which serves the physical needs of this thriving city. The extent of the industry here gives a clear indication of the prosperity of the inner section, the monastery proper.

Coming to Glendalough as pilgrims, we enter via the gateway, an imposing stone passageway which leads us from the outer to the inner section. It is, in itself, an impressive sight, befitting the scene which awaits us in the monastic enclosure.

Here, amid the throng of holy men and pilgrims, we find the Cathedral of Ss Peter and Paul, a splendid round tower - well over a hundred feet high - as well as guest houses and the monks' quarters. It bears all the hallmarks of prestige and patronage.
 
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